Day 9 July 11th, 2007:
Surfing day! Ak woke us up singing a song he made up as he went along to some annoying tune that got stuck in my head. Lee had set up surfing lessons for all of them the day before (I didn’t want to learn to surf). We were supposed to be at the surf camp at nine o’clock to pick up the instructors. We ate breakfast and grabbed all of our stuff. We had to go into Gigante first to get a board from a man named Dale Dagger who I guess has started a big surfing business down here and Costa Rica. I don’t really know exactly. We all went to get that and then headed back up to the surf camp (just where they stayed, the beach was elsewhere). The surf camp I guess is very new, we were their first lessons. When Lee had gone to talk to them they said they only had one instructor and that he didn’t speak English. But when we got there to pick him up there was actually another one as well who spoke English. He was from England. So we had two: one was Jaime and the other Laurie (Lawrence). They had one board and we had the one we’d rented as we headed to the beach. It was a different beach than we had been to already, in Amarillo. I don’t know the name of it because we had to stop before we got where we were supposed to go: to a beach called Colorado. But we had to stop at the one before because I guess there is some land dispute going on and it is dangerous to go on the road because they’ve armed themselves. Obviously we are not part of their dispute but it is better safe than sorry. It is all one big long stretch anyway, separated only by some rocks but apparently it’s two different beaches.
Once we got on the beach Laurie and Jaime sat with everyone in the sand and Laurie explained the concept and how the waves worked; where they broke, why, where you wanted to be on wave, the currents, what to do if you got caught in a rip, etc. He showed them how to paddle out, how to get up, how to stand, everything they needed to know before they actually got out there. Amy and Jason went out first. Watching them paddle out, Laurie helping Jason and Jaime helping Amy, was a funny sight. Each of the instructors had the back of each of their boards, helping to push them past the incoming waves. Once they got out far enough they had to paddle to the tip of a breaking wave and ride in on the white foam, just working on going straight in at first, to get a feel for the board. They would try and stand up and the first couple times they didn’t succeed but they quickly got the hang of it and before long Amy was standing up almost every time. She had the bigger board (better for learning). Jason had a harder time with the smaller board but was still standing more times than not. It was fun to watch. Before Ak and Lee tried we asked them to give us a demonstration and they did. Jaime had the smaller board (which is better for actually surfing, with the turning and such) it was impressive to watch him glide along the wave as the crest turned over into the tube behind him. Laurie was good too although he had the big board so it wasn’t so impressive.
When Ak and Lee tried they were not quite as successful but still appeared to have a lot of fun. I guess they’d tried it in Hawaii and not liked it much but they said they had lots of fun even if their muscles were a little sore and Lee had rash on her chest from either the board or something in the water. The instructors said that they were all much better than they’d expected and they really had enjoyed teaching. After everyone was finishing up there were a couple more surfers walking down our beach to Colorado because the waves are so much bigger there that’s where they all go to surf.
As we drove back up the roads to drop them off and go home we passed a bunch of men with guns. Since we were riding in the bed of the truck it was a little disconcerting. But Jaime yelled to them as we went by, I guess they were friends of his and they didn’t really mean anyone any harm, just to look impressive to the other guys. I don’t really know.
After going back to the house and changing and washing up and everything we headed to Rivas to get food since were completely out. Nothing really interesting happened. I finished another book, I’m reading about one a day now which means I’m running out extremely quickly. I wish I’d brought more. I should’ve brought “Mists of Avalon” I would’ve actually had time to get through the whole thing like I never would have at home. We got a lot of food and a broom and some other small things that we still hadn’t gotten. Ak tried to find somewhere to fax something but the whole city was out of power or phone lines or something. There were a lot of wires down in the street at one place in any case. We headed home, made some dinner and had a lazy night.